Kebabs, Biryani and Much More: A Historic Indian City Earns a Spot on Unesco Culinary List.
Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.